Ventilation & Rangehood FAQ

Solar Whiz unit has a recommendation on what size homes they ventilate best. The recommendations for ventilating standard pitched homes are as follows and are based on our experience in the Australian roof ventilation market since 2010: 1. The SW-AU-R-28 - Suitable for spaces up to 180m2. 2. The SW-AU-R-40 - Suitable for spaces up and above 250m2. Many of our competitors recommend less capacity. Theoretically, these lower airflow capacity requirements are correct but don't actually result in the desired outcome - because of severe restrictions for the necessary replacement air. At GES we also carry out our own testing, whilst it appears that our competitors rely on the manufacturer's specifications.

SW-AU-R-28: 1700 m3/h / 472.22 L/s. SW-AU-R-40: 2300 m3/h / 638.89 L/s. SW-AU-C-155: 10000 m3/h / 2777.78 L/s.

The different Solar Whiz roof ventilation fan units are capable of moving 10-30 times the amount of air that a Whirlybird moves. The SW-AU-R-28, which extracts 1,700m3/h. Capable of moving between 10 to 15 whirlybirds worth of air. The SW-AU-R-40, which extracts 2,300m3/h. Capable of moving between 20 to 30 whirlybirds worth of air. This all depends on the type of Whirlybird, as well. An average Whirlybird moves around 100m3/h, and all our measurements and quotes derive from this measurement.

The short answer is no - you can't over-ventilate your roof space. The long answer is that there's no limit to how much airflow you can have in your roof space. Provided you have enough roof ventilation airflow, you'll be continuously replacing the warm air in your roof space, flushing it out with cool replacement air. You can definitely under-ventilate, however, we will advise you of the best possible solution to get you the results you need.

Air intakes are typically eave vents or other openings under the eaves or even unsealed openings for metal roofing. Air intakes introduce air into the roof space. Exhaust vents include all forms of roof-based ventilators that are typically installed on the upper third of a roof. Examples include whirlybirds, Solar Whiz ventilators, or ridge cap vents. Exhaust vents expel air from the roof space.

Passive ventilation relies on unpredictable natural processes like wind and heat convection. As a result, passive ventilation works when the conditions are right and not necessarily when you need it to. For example, a whirlybird will: Run a cold, wet and windy winter day or night when you would rather have the heat trapped inside your house. And there's nothing you can do to stop it. Not run on a still, hot summer day or night when the built-up heat in your roof space needs to be extracted. Furthermore, passive ventilation is nowhere near powerful enough to achieve the appropriate amount of ventilation you need. An average whirlybird unit is capable of ventilating around 100-150 m3/h in 12 km/h winds. A small roof space usually needs 700 m3/h of air movement to have a noticeable effect.

Our Solar Whiz roof ventilators are supplied with high-quality solar PV panels that still supply power even in low-light conditions. Low-light conditions will reduce the capacity at which the Solar Whiz unit can ventilate. However, even if it was running at half capacity, the Solar Whiz is still ventilating more than a standard whirlybird. Using our Night Operations Kit with your Solar Whiz installation bypasses low-light conditions by topping up electricity from mains power to ensure 100% efficiency all day, every day.

Eave vents are important because they provide the coolest replacement air. Replacement air is dragged in by the Solar Whiz unit to replace the hot air that is being extracted. This is an important principle for flushing out trapped air responsible for 25% to 35% of the heat in your home. Without eave vents or other forms of air intake, a roof ventilator unit will struggle to extract air. It would be trying to pull air out of a vacuum. Please note: galvanised eave vents are not suitable for installation in coastal or other highly corrosive environments. In these cases you will need to source replacement air from somewhere else.

Ceiling vents are interior vents that go into the ceiling of a room and connect directly to the above roof space. They are ideal for double-story homes where the heat can accumulate in second-story rooms as well as in roof space. Heat naturally rises and can radiate outwards in confined spaces. A ceiling vent allows a roof-mounted Solar Whiz to pull fresh air through the home, and flush the heat out of your second story AND roof space.

The Solar Whiz units all operate below 60 decibels at one metre. The measurements for each roof ventilator are as follows: SW-AU-R-28 - <45 Decibels (dBA). SW-AU-R-40 - <60 Decibels (dBA). These measurements are taken from one metre away. In reality, your unit will be located on your roof; far more than one metre away and likely separated by walls and ceiling!

The Solar Whiz Gable units are ideal for homes with pitched roofs that are too steep to conventionally install a Solar Whiz, or if a customer wishes a minimalist look for their roof. We also offer a range of louvre-mounted fans. SW-AU-W-28 - Airflow capacity of 2,000m3/h. SW-AU-W-40 - Airflow capacity of 2,500m3/h. SW-RAF-G-2100 - Airflow capacity of 2,100m3/h. Alternatively, the gable units make for powerful sub-floor ventilation fans.

Solar Whiz ventilators can be paired with a Night Operations Kit. This system (also referred to as a constant current module or simply, NOPs) uses mains power to top up the remaining power needed to run a unit at full power. In low levels of sunlight the NOP system will only draw the energy needed to keep your unit operating at full capacity. Once the sun has set the NOP can power the unit completely, using minimal energy. It's highly unlikely that it would require more than 24 watts. NOPs run from a 24-volt power supply connected to a power point in your roof space. This can be installed with the help of an electrician.

The Solar Whiz runs whenever there is active sunlight reaching the solar panel. This means that yes, the Solar Whiz will run in winter. Solar Whiz offers both a Fixed Temperature Thermostat, and an Adjustable Temperature Thermostat. The Fixed Temperature Thermostat will prevent a unit from operating unless it is 30C degrees or more inside the space where the thermostat is installed. The Adjustable Temperature Thermostat allows the user to set the temperature at which the unit runs.

The percentage of heat that is lost through the ventilator itself is very minimal. You are far more likely to have heat radiate out through your metal, or tiled roof if it's uninsulated. Your best solution is to make sure you have good insulation in your home. While the thermostats ensure that the unit runs only when you need it to, Solar Whiz ceiling vents are designed to be able to close. They have internal butterfly-style flaps that can be made to shut. If you still have concerns about heat escaping through the Solar Whiz unit itself, there are some DIY solutions. Cutting out a piece of foam that can be manually inserted into the throat of the unit to prevent heat from escaping through the ventilator is an option.

Solar Whiz units are DIY-friendly and can usually be installed by any competent handyman with the right tools. We strongly recommend that one of our authorised installers handle the installation for you. This will make sure that you get the best possible results according to our installation principles. However, we are happy to assist you with advice should you decide to do it yourself.

Every home is different, but Solar Whiz has taken strides to offer accessories that cater to different styles or pitches of roofing. For steep roofs, we use gable fans so that units don't have to be installed at a steep angle. This makes the installation much easier and removes the risk of water ingress. For cathedral-style roofing, we offer extension collars for the units. This ensures that the units are installed without protruding into the ceiling space. For flat or lower pitch roofing, we recommend installing more eave vents to maximise air replacement and evenly distribute airflow.

If you're looking to use Solar Whiz to ventilate your home rather than your roof space, we can help. For limited roof space access, we install butterfly-style vents that can be open and closed as needed.

Instead of installing a unit on the roof itself, gable fans are installed vertically at the top of the wall that connects to your roof space. This allows for direct replacement air crossflow and maximises ventilation results. Gable units are used in situations where the roof slope might be too steep or a customer prefers the aesthetic appearance of a gable fan.

Solar Whiz can be installed in all kinds of small spaces, such as: Granny flats, Studio flats, Garages, Workshops, Trailers, Cabins, Sheds. These small-yet-powerful units are perfect for tin or metal sheds that can accumulate large amounts of heat very quickly in the summer.

A Solar Whiz warranty offers a substantial timeframe to cover our products & components. Warranties for our products is as follows: Solar Whiz PV Panels - 10 year warranty. Solar Whiz Components - 2 year warranty.

Solar Whiz is designed, developed and manufactured in Australia by Global Eco & Environmental Solutions (GES Pty Ltd).

Any large space that requires significant ventilation and air movement will benefit from Solar Whiz Commercial units. Here are some examples: Factories, Warehouses, Schools and daycare institutions, Office buildings, Community centres and halls, Exhibition centres, Industrial and agricultural sheds, Indoor play and climbing facilities are all perfect applications for SW-AU-C-155 industrial whirlybirds.

Like our smaller domestic Solar Whiz units, the commercial units are named according to the nominal max wattage of the solar panel. The maximum airflow capacity of the industrial whirlybirds SW-AU-C-155 - measured without resistance is 10000 cubic metres of air per hour (cbm/hr).

To calculate how many SW-AU-C-155 units you will need, you will first need to calculate an estimate of the volume of the facility you are looking to ventilate (length x width x height). When you have this figure, you need to multiply this by the recommended number of air changes.

A factory is 40m x 40m x 10m (16000 cubic metres). We multiply this by the recommended minimum number of hourly air changes for effective ventilation in a factory (3-5, in this case 4). The required airflow is, therefore: 16000 (cubic metres) x 4 (no. of air changes) = 64000 cubic metres of airflow is recommended, per hour. So, 7 of the SW-AU-C-155 units would be the minimum recommended in this case. It is important to realize that while 3-5 air changes per hour is the recommended amount, even having 1-2 air changes would make a difference.

Yes! The SW-AU-C-155 can be installed with our adjustable thermostat if you wish to do so. With a thermostat installed, the unit will run until the temperature at the location of the thermostat drops below the set temperature. The adjustable thermostat also has an on/off switch so you can switch the unit completely off if you wish to do so. In some applications where constant ventilation is required, it may not be beneficial to have the thermostat installed.

The SW-AU-C-155 is supplied with: a 24V, 100W motor and a PV panel to suit.

The SW-AU-C-155 unit is rated to run at <73dBA. This is roughly comparable to an A/C unit at 30 metres distance (<70dBA) but will be on the roof.

Our commercial units are made up of 4 main components: 24 Volt DC software-controlled brushless motor with double-shielded ball bearings. Stainless steel fan body, motor arms and fasteners. Aluminium fan cap and flashing. Separately mounted 155 Watt PV panel.

We use materials designed to last in Australian conditions. All components are stainless steel, including fasteners, except for the fan cap and flashing, which are aluminium alloy. The fan cap is powder-coated Shale Gray.

The Commercial Units: SW-AU-C-155 unit - 900 Dia 305 high; throat size of 630mm. 155W Panel - 1620 x 760 x 40. Flashing - 915mm x 915mm x 0.8mm. Packaging: SW-AU-C-155 unit - 920x920x340. 155W Panel - 1650 x 790 x 70.

When an exhaust fan extracts hot air from inside it needs to have access to replacement air to replace the lost air. Our commercial fans extract significant amounts of predominantly hot/warm air from inside your establishment; for cooling to take place we need to replace the extracted air. Replacement air is usually dragged in through ventilation vents that already exist in the building. If you don't have existing passive ventilation vents replacement air can be obtained by leaving windows, roller doors, emergency exit doors, or anything similar slightly open while the units are operating.

Open doors, roller doors, windows, passive vents.

Installing a thermostat with your unit will stop it from running in the colder winter times. This will ensure that valuable heat in your roof space isn't being unnecessarily extracted. The amount of heat lost through the unit itself is minimal. The best thing you can do to keep heat inside during winter is to properly insulate the building. However, if you wish to take things a step further you can cut a piece of foam to fit and place it inside the throat of the Solar Whiz unit.

Solar Whiz commercial roof ventilators are designed and manufactured in Melbourne for durability in the harsh Australian conditions and backed by a 10-year warranty on PV panels and 2 years warranty on other components. An optional extended warranty is also available.

Our units can be installed with either an adjustable or a fixed thermostat. These give you extra control over when the unit starts and stops operating. Fixed thermostats turn your unit on when the temperature reaches 30C. That also means that the unit will turn off when the temperature drops below 30C. An adjustable thermostat lets you decide what temperature your unit starts or stops operating (between 10C-30C). This option also comes with a manual switch that lets you turn off the Solar Whiz even if the air temperature is above the set temperature.

Noticing a musty smell around your home or signs of damp beneath your floors? Poor subfloor ventilation might be the cause. Moisture and stagnant air in these areas can lead to mould, timber rot, and even attract pests. Subfloor ventilation fans offer a practical solution, helping circulate fresh air, reduce humidity, and keep the space under your home dry and healthy. If there isn't enough space to install a Solar Whiz subfloor ventilation fan, inline fans offer a great alternative for underfloor ventilation.

Rangehoods should ideally be larger than the cooking zone underneath to ensure optimal capture efficiency. Most rangehood types are available in 60 or 90cm width - covering the most common cooktop widths. Schweigen also has options for 120, 150 and 200cm width to cater for different install environments and requirements. Some models even come with enlarged depths to fit into deeper cabinetry for better coverage over the cooktop. The distance between the cooktop and the rangehood is just as important. Do refer to the user manual for the recommended installation height to ensure optimal rangehood performance.

All Schweigen silent rangehoods powered by the German-made Isodrive Motor System include our Schweigen SteelFlex high performance safety ducting at no extra charge. Schweigen SteelFlex is the perfect solution to traditional ducting that may otherwise pose health and safety risks to homes. It is an ultra-strong and flexible high-performance safety duct made of Shirikon Firemesh. Whereas tin and other metal ducting pose health, fire and safety risks, Schweigen SteelFlex was designed to specifically target these issues. Benefits include: Lifetime Guarantee; Superior Performance (rigorously tested and certified by an independent test facility); Quieter (acoustically damped for extreme low resonance, turbulence and noise); Bacteria Shield (advanced antimicrobial coating); Mould Resistant; Temperature Resistant (tested between -10C and 80C); Fireproof (designed with Shirikon Firemesh); Pest Proof; Crush Proof; Tear & Puncture Resistant; Safer & Easier to install.

LED (light emitting diode) lighting is very energy efficient. These lights generate very little heat, which means almost all the energy they consume is turned into light. They also last a long time (about 50 times longer than your average incandescent bulb).

Mesh filters when compared to baffles have increased airflow and keep noise to a minimum. Baffles have a commercial look and are good for longevity. Baffles pros: Dishwasher-safe; Heavy-duty material and construction; Easy to remove; Lifetime warranty. Baffles cons: May be noisier than mesh filters; May drip oil if not cleaned well. Mesh filters pros: Dishwasher-safe; Captures more fat/oil particles; Easy to remove; Lifetime warranty. Mesh filters cons: May deteriorate faster than baffles; May need to be cleaned more frequently.

The induction cooktop is designed to provide rapid heating, improved thermal efficiency and greater heat consistency. For some customers with an induction cooktop, condensation can form on their rangehood filters while using their cooktop. The immediate and contained heat source of an induction cooktop can produce vapours rapidly. This prevents the filters from gradually warming up and increases the chance of condensation forming. Variables include, but are not limited to: The Country or State you live in; The position of your home and kitchen (morning/afternoon sun); The quality of pots and cookware you are using; Height of rangehood; Rapid heating; Ducting angle; Filter size. It is important to understand that neither the rangehood nor the induction cooktop are faulty.

The Isodrive motors are fitted with a clever water intrusion system; rain is prevented from entering the home as this patented technology effectively directs rain and water away from the housing and down the roof. Our motors have an IPX4 waterproof rating and are approved for use outside.

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Schweigen has experienced servicemen throughout Australia and New Zealand. For spare parts please contact the Schweigen Service Department: Australia 1300 881 693 (Weekdays 9am - 7pm AEDT); New Zealand 0800 259 644 (Weekdays 11am NZST - 9pm NZDT). Kindly note that the Service Department closes at 5pm AEST / 7pm NZST.

In most cases Schweigen silent rangehoods incur the same cost as the installation of a ducted one. The only difference is that the external motor replaces the outdoor vent, and this may require additional fixing and bracing to the roof or wall by a licensed technician. Please contact your nearest Schweigen Experienced Installer for a quote.

Installed correctly and used at the lower speeds, Schweigen silent rangehoods cannot be heard over the ambient noise within the kitchen. At higher speeds wind noise may be heard, depending on the distance of the motor from the rangehood and the type of filters selected. Referencing a Schweigen Silent Rangehood with an externally mounted Isodrive motor (900 m3/hour airflow) and 5 variable speed levels, measured eye-level whilst in operation at a standing distance as if cooking at the cooktop: Level 1-3 (Heavy Cooking): Silent like the airflow from a laptop/computer fan. Level 4-5 (Boost Mode): Quiet hiss of airflow similar to a multisplit aircon unit, without fan or motor noise.

The external motor unit removes the fan noise from the kitchen and transfers it to outside of the home. This allows the use of more powerful motors providing Schweigen rangehoods with unrestricted airflow technology that caters for a healthier environment for the entire family.

External Motor (Silent Isodrive System). Our revolutionary silent rangehood concept begins by having the motor removed from the canopy and placing it externally outside your home. This ensures silent extraction inside your kitchen while being able to sport powerful German made motors that can handle any cooking need.

Allvent manufactures inline duct fans, ceiling exhaust fans, wall-mounted exhaust fans, and commercial ventilation fans for residential and light commercial applications across Australia.

A ceiling exhaust fan mounts directly in the ceiling and is visible from below. An inline fan mounts inside the duct run — often in the roof space — so only the grille is visible. Inline fans are generally quieter at the ceiling level and can serve multiple rooms via a single unit.

The general rule is to achieve 10–15 air changes per hour. Multiply your room volume (length × width × height in metres) by 10–15 to get the minimum airflow in m³/h. For a standard 2.5m × 2m × 2.4m bathroom (12 m³) you need at least 120–180 m³/h.

Allvent exhaust fans range from approximately 28 dBA (whisper-quiet inline models) to 45 dBA for standard ceiling fans. The dBA rating is listed on each product page. For bedrooms and ensuites, look for fans under 35 dBA.

Yes. A single inline fan can ventilate multiple rooms if the duct runs are correctly sized and balanced. Each room needs its own grille and duct branch. The total airflow capacity of the fan must cover the combined requirements of all rooms served.

Allvent fans are available in standard (switch-operated), timer, and humidity-sensor variants. A timer or humidity sensor is strongly recommended for bathrooms to ensure adequate post-shower ventilation even after the occupant leaves.

Allvent exhaust fans are covered by a 2-year manufacturer warranty covering defects in materials and workmanship under normal domestic use.

Standard exhaust fans are not BAL-rated. For properties in bushfire attack level (BAL) zones, a fire-rated backdraft shutter and compliant duct termination are required. Check your BAL rating before purchasing.

Exhaust fan installation involves electrical work and must be carried out by a licensed electrician in Australia. The ducting run should be kept as short as possible with minimal bends to maximise airflow. Termination outside (not into roof space) is essential.

Single-speed fans run at one fixed speed. Variable-speed fans allow you to adjust the airflow to suit conditions — lower speed for quiet background ventilation, higher speed when cooking or showering. Variable-speed is preferable in open-plan areas where noise is a concern.

Allvent fans comply with Australian energy efficiency standards. Look for the star rating label on each product — higher star ratings indicate lower running costs.

Exhaust fans remove hot, humid air from a room and draw in cooler outside air (provided a fresh air inlet is available). They are effective for night purging in mild climates but are not a substitute for air conditioning in extreme heat.

Rigid metal ducting is preferred for permanent installations as it minimises airflow resistance. Flexible insulated duct (Silvaflex or equivalent) is acceptable for short runs with minimal bends. Never use uninsulated flexible duct in a conditioned ceiling space as condensation will form.

No. Ducting into a roof cavity dumps moisture-laden air into the roof space, which promotes mould, condensation and structural timber damage. All exhaust fans must duct to outside the building envelope.

Clean the grille and fan blades every 6–12 months. Dust buildup reduces airflow and increases motor load. Most grilles can be removed, washed in warm soapy water, and reattached without tools.

Fans installed within 1.2m of a shower or bathtub must have a minimum IP44 rating (splash-proof). Fans installed directly over a shower recess must be IP55 or higher. Check zone requirements in AS3000 (Wiring Rules).

In most Australian residential situations no planning approval is required. However, electrical installation must be done by a licensed electrician. In heritage-listed buildings or strata properties, check with your council or body corporate first.

Commercial kitchens require high-volume fans capable of handling grease-laden air. Look for grease-rated motors, stainless-steel construction, and provision for grease traps. Flow rates for commercial cooking are typically 30–60 air changes per hour. Contact Airdry for commercial kitchen ventilation advice.

At the point of use (room grille), inline fans are generally quieter than ceiling fans of equivalent airflow, because the motor is remote from the living space. In-roof vibration can transmit through duct work, so use rubber anti-vibration mounts when installing inline fans.

Yes, provided the fan has sufficient total airflow capacity and each branch duct is properly sized and balanced (using a balancing damper on each branch). This is a cost-effective approach in new builds where multiple wet areas are close together.

The system is free to run and is not connected to the main electricity supply. It is supplied with electricity via a solar cell. When the sun shines it warms up the air in the absorber and the integrated solar cell produces electricity for the built-in fan which blows the heated air into the house. Fresh air from outside is sucked / pulled in through a perforated back plate and a 2 mm black layer of felt. The air velocity is so low that only extremely small amounts of dust, pollen etc. are drawn into the system. This dust will eventually dissipate through use. When the system is running, air flow remains inside the panel. When the system is switched off, it cools itself down - even if there is bright sunshine. The heat rises inside the solar panel and exits via the felt and the back plate (open construction).

Once the SolarVenti has been installed, there will be visible condensation on the Lexan plastic finishing coat on the inside of the solar air collector at regular intervals. This is quite normal and will in no way damage the system. When the warm air in the solar panel meets the cold air - or at any rate colder air - outside the panel, the condensation will become visible. Therefore, condensation will be most common when the solar air collector starts up after an idle period due to cloudy weather. You can avoid the visible condensation by switching off the solar air collector for an hour or two depending on the weather conditions.

No, it is maintenance-free. Rain and snow wash dust, pollen and other impurities off the system.

No, the air is filtered through the felt. The felt cannot get clogged as the air is drawn into the absorber through the whole of the rear of the panel.

It is true that the SolarVenti itself does not dehumidify. The system has a dehumidifying effect due to the fact that it sends dry, warm air into the building at times when the air outside is at its driest and cleanest, i.e. when the weather is relatively clear. The best weather for dehumidification is actually a cold clear winter's day, even with a little snow on the ground. The air is particularly dry and clean and the reflection from the snow gives the system an extra boost.

The frame and the back plates are made of salt-resistant aluminum. This makes the SolarVenti easy to lift, move and install. Due to its construction, the solar air collector is immune to corrosion - even in an aggressive environment. The glass plate is not glass but UV-resistant Lexan (plastic) which has insulating properties and does not splinter if the SolarVenti is dropped during transport for example. The Lexan plate is shockproof and will not even break if you kick a football at it. It is also very easy to replace. All screws and rivets are made from stainless steel and salt-resistant aluminum.

Based on the experience of Danish customers with the early version of the holiday house pack, in which the solar cell was positioned next to the panel, we expect the life expectancy for the solar cell to be 10 - 20 years. This is the most critical component in the panel. The fan is one of the best and quietest on the market - a Sunon with double-row ball bearings and, in theory, 30,000 hours of operation which corresponds to approx. 25 years of wear and tear.

It makes it easier to position the system on the wall or roof, and it looks nicer. The solar cell is more protected from hail, branches, footballs, wind and other types of weather when it is built into the panel.

When it is running at full capacity, the acoustic pressure is approx. 40 db (plus/minus 2 db, depending on solar radiation). This corresponds to the noise from a very quiet extractor fan and we have not yet had any customers who have been bothered by the noise from the SolarVenti. Moreover, the noise level (air flow) can be adjusted using the fan's regulator. When the fan is turned down the temperature of the injection air should rise.

The regulator can reduce the speed of the ventilator (air) and, thus, increase the heat of the air while reducing the noise level. The regulator can also be switched off if you turn it to zero. The on/off switch only has an ON/OFF function.

The system should face as close to due North as possible and have as little shade, from trees or other buildings, as possible.

In theory, it is best to mount the system on a roof because the sun goes down at an angle on the west to the horizon. If you mount the panel on the roof, it must be tilted to 60 degrees in order to catch the winter sun. The pitch also ensures that dirt does not collect on the surface of the panel and snow does not lie on the light-permeable surface. Lastly, the pitch is required to ensure that the solar air collector panel can release heat when the system is switched off, e.g. on a warm summer day.

The solar air collector panel can be mounted vertically, like a door, or horizontally. The position is solely determined by what looks nicest and the limitations of the building itself.

At our latitude, temperatures must be extreme before the system is not able to keep the house frost-free. However, we cannot guarantee that the system will keep the house frost-free. There is also a great difference in the way in which houses are insulated and there are other crucial factors. For example, the way in which the air circulates differs from house to house. It is also of significant importance that the system has the right dimensions and is positioned correctly. The system must also have enough time/sun to ensure thorough dehumidification.

Yes, we can always send our roof set on afterwards. All models are delivered with brackets for the wall.

The system is delivered in the form of a do-it-yourself pack in a shock-proof cardboard box. All accessories, such as flexible pipes, vents, valve frames, straps, brackets and screws, are packed in a components box which is packed in the large cardboard box. Additional items - roof kit, insulated ducting etc, are separate items.

The system creates slight excess pressure in the house. This constantly pushes the old air out. The air will try to get out where the house is not tightly sealed, e.g. at doors, windows, ceilings and floors. You can send the air in the direction you want using the house's air escape vents. If you position the air escape vent(s) at the opposite end of the house to the injection air duct, the warm air from the solar air collector will be optimally distributed throughout the whole house.

In general, shorter pipes give a better utilization of heat. If the piping must be longer than the lead-in through the wall, you should use smooth pipes in order to reduce resistance/pressure loss. Any/all ducting should be outstretched to provide smooth inner walls. Ducting should be double lined or insulated, preferably R1 or higher. External rigid stormwater with inner duct lining may also be used. In the case of the SV3, 1 to 2 meters of smooth insulated piping is the workable. In the case of the SV7 and SV14, 1 to 4 meters. In the case of the SV20, 1 to 5 meters. In the case of the SV30, 1 to 15 meters. Bends in ducting lines are acceptable, once they are not acute or sharp in which there would be efficiency loss. It is advisable to use an inline fan positioned closer to the exit point for long runs or for ducting down from a roof to a basement, as air is easier pulled than pushed.

The dimensions of the SV3 box are: 96 x 60 x 14 cm. SV7 box: 119 x 77 x 15 cm. SV14 box: 217 x 77 x 15 cm. SV20 box: 217 x 104 x 15 cm. SV30 box: 306 x 106 x 9 cm. The box for the roof kit for SV7/14: 79 x 26 x 22 cm. The box for the roof kit for SV20: 108 x 26 x 22 cm. The box for the roof kit for SV30: 108 x 26 x 22 cm. The box for the SV30 PV panel: 110 x 69 x 15.

The air will automatically be drawn to the places where it is easiest to get out, e.g. to vents in kitchens and bathrooms or other vents and openings in the house. If possible, let the air blow directly into the most important room and open the doors to other rooms. You should be aware that a chimney damper in a chimney which is not in use will create an outlet for the air in the room.

One possibility would be to set up a larger solar panel (SV30 is 3 m2). If you ensure that there is an air escape vent at the other end of the house, the air from the SolarVenti will automatically be drawn to it. Another possibility would be to mount, e.g., 2 SolarVentis on the house, one at each end.

All models can be switched off. They all have a built-in on/off switch. A supplementary regulator enables you to adjust air flow and temperature on the larger systems if the people in the building are close to the air injection duct. The small systems can only be adjusted using the air injection vent on the ceiling or the wall. In hot humid states or conditions, it has been found that users leave the SolarVenti on. The low humidity internally creates a cooling effect on the building and occupants, thereby creating a more comfortable environment indoors than outdoors. This may also reduce the need for reliance on air conditioning.

Yes, it is easy to extend the system so that it draws hot air out of or cool air into the building. This requires an extra fan on the North side to extract or the South side of the building to supply and a room thermostat which switches between the fans. You can increase the cooling effect of the extra fan on the South side of the building by drawing the air through a cooling pipe (which is buried in the ground) before it is injected into the building.

If the system is under one year old, it will often blow in more air than expected. This results in slightly lower temperatures and is due to the fact that the solar cell produces an extraordinary amount of electricity to begin with. After approximately one year, the solar cell's electricity production will stabilize at the specified level. The extra amount of air to begin with is usually an advantage as it dehumidifies the house more quickly. If you want warmer air, you can adjust the temperature by turning down the damper at the air injection duct, or by turning down the electronic regulator if the system has one.

The fan requires a certain voltage from the solar cell before it can start up. Once it has started it is easier for it to continue. If the sun is weak, for example if it does not directly hit the panel or the sun is behind a cloud, you might hear a low buzzing noise from the fan (which is trying to start). It is difficult to define the best conditions for the system. A small cloud in a clear blue sky can cause more problems than even cloud cover. This is due to the fact that even cloud cover emits a lot of indirect (defused) radiation.

When the sun shines, the air is warmed up and this is what produces the dehumidifying and warming effect. Otherwise, the system would just inject the air from outside directly into the house. Frost and sun often go together. The sun tends to shine on really cold days. On a frosty, clear day almost all of the moisture will lie just above, and very close to, the ground. Therefore, all of the air above this is very dry and suitable for injection into the house.

The SolarVenti dehumidifies a house over a period of time. During very cloudy periods nothing will happen. When the sun shines again, the limited amount of damp which has accumulated in the meantime (and which you will probably not even notice) will be extracted relatively quickly.

If, for example, you mount an SV14 in a vertical position on the wall of a house, and a large overhang prevents the sun from reaching the upper third of the panel, this will still be alright. The solar cell is in the bottom/lower half of a vertical panel. If you mount an SV7 high up on the wall, under the overhang, this will cause problems. The solar air collector will probably remain switched off most of the time. The solar cell is in the middle of the SV7 panel and if it is mounted high up under a large overhang (eaves) the cell will be in the shade for too long. The problem can be solved by mounting the SV7 a little further down the wall.

Yes, anyone who is a little talented in the use of ordinary trade tools will be able to install a system. The SV14, which is the largest of the small models, weighs 19 kilos and is light enough for most people to handle. The SV30 is our heaviest model. The solar panel weighs 28 kilos. In this case, two people will be needed if it is to be installed on a roof and it would also be an advantage if there were two people involved in the installation of the system on a wall.

We believe that the system must have an effect in relation to allergies and asthma. It greatly dehumidifies and has a drying effect, which creates the worst possible conditions for fungus and mould. Also, the air the system blows through the building will usually be very clean. However, the air velocity of the injection air is so low that it would only draw in very small amounts of dust and pollen to the rear of the panel. Many customers have told our installation engineers that they have noticed an improvement in allergic rashes and reduced asthma attacks after the installation of a SolarVenti. In some cases, the symptoms have disappeared altogether.

It is fairly simple to install a SolarVenti and anyone who is a little talented in the use of ordinary tools will be able to install a system. The SV3 takes about 2 hours to mount on a wall. The SV7 takes about 2 hours to mount and the SV14 about 3 hours. The roof model takes about twice as long in each case. The SV20 and SV30 models would take 7 hours.

No, if the solar air collector panel and the pipe through the wall are mounted correctly, there will rarely be a draught through the air injection hole when the fan is not working at night. This is due to the built-in Moisture Stop that can hold a certain amount of wind pressure. If you completely want to shut the air injection duct under all wind conditions you can get a motor damper that closes hermetically.

Yes, SV Regulator Unit works as a thermostat, an on/off switch and a regulator.

A good indoor climate comes from outdoors. Fresh air is only available from outside; but polluted air also comes from the outside. So, of course, it is possible to draw the smoke from your neighbor's chimney into your living room but it could also come in through an open window if the wind is blowing the wrong way. It is very rare that this occurrence happens. The position of the SolarVenti determines which type of air you will draw into the house. If the air intake is placed where the air is normally clean, the injected air will also be clean. In general, the cleanest and driest air will be at the top of the house. In practice, this means that you should not install the SolarVenti close to the ground.

Most people would say that it should be at floor-level. However, it appears that it is irrelevant whether it is on the ceiling or on the top, bottom or middle of the wall. The volume of injected air is of much more importance to the result.

It is always advisable to use insulated ducting whether it is twin lined ducting/pipework (one inside the other) or lagged insulated ducting. For long runs from roof to ceiling or to lower ground rooms, we recommend premium insulated foil duct with an R1 rating or greater. Ensure ducting is outstretched. Vertical ducting runs should be supported. Fans should be moved and positioned to ensure no reverberation occurs. Ducting should not be reduced or squeezed on any part of the run to restrict air flow. All connections/joints or splices should be clean, well taped and not restrictive.